How to use nuts for climbing.
Nuts are an essential for every trad climber.
How to use nuts for climbing. Like many things in the climbing community, preference for passive protection is based on what usually amounts to personal opinion. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Feb 2, 2024 · These origins and the heavily continued use of passive protection in England today, produce some of the best climbing nuts for trad climbing available today. Don't get stuck in the "Hero Worship" trap Carry a nut tool, and learn how to use it well Learn the tricks for removing stuck nuts and cams Don't drop any gear! Aug 3, 2023 · Explore the inner workings of a ball nut and understand its role in climbing. They serve as connection points between the climber and the rock or other surfaces being climbed. This is often just a word used to refer to something that you use to secure yourself and keep yourself safe while climbing Nov 22, 2021 · What size are climbing wall t-nuts? T-Nuts. It comes furnished with a wire sling, and is particularly useful for aid climbing. Squirrels are probably among the cutest furry critters out there. There are several ways to do it and this is how I make it happen. Using an Allen wrench (included), gently start threading the bolt into the t-nut. This article explains all. When we replace t-nuts, we completely remove the old t-nut, use four screws that are just under an inch and a half (so they wont stick through the wall, you could use longer ones and grind them off) to screw the patch directly onto the back of the wall with the holes aligned. Install the t-nuts from the opposite side that you drilled the holes. My recommendation, drill more holes than you think you will need, it will give you more options for climbing movement down the road. 7). Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. hold manufacturers base bolt and T-nut lengths on 3/4" sheeting. 4-3. S. I see numbers being thrown around and a common one being 3/8 of an inch for the t-nut size itself. For example, French climbers in the Verdon Gorge began establishing routes from the top down while on rappel. Oct 12, 2023 · Today, other than racking your nuts, aid climbing, or as part of a rescue kit, most climbers don’t use ovals. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. You want to avoid lining up a T-nut with a framing stud since mounting bolts often protrude out the back of the plywood. It is critical to use the correct length bolt for your safety. Placing nuts well keeping you safe while leading and being able to remove nuts that your leader's placed is incredibly important -- the smoother and faster you can do it the easier climbing becomes. They are also quite entertaining to watch, all until Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. Anodized by size, they're quickly identifiabl Hey folks, I have couple question regarding a home climbing wall and I'd like to know what you guys have done. Use a hammer to get the t-nuts completely flush and seated Jan 29, 2013 · Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. They are cheap, light and durable. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. The more holes, the more climbing options but the downside is increased cost up-front to buy the t-nuts. Climbing gear is not made to last forever. We cover how to inspect bolts, when to retire carabiners, best practices when clipping to avoid big falls, and managing risk. In this video we show the process of installing two different types of t-nuts that are sold at Atomik Climbing Holds. This system is nice because you are not limited to where you can put a hold. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. We really hope you find it useful. You can learn this climbing technique and be safe when lead climbing. Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. It is okay to use a longer bolt as long as there is enough space behind the wall to allow you to fully tighten it. We also cover placing gear on traditionally protected climbs, backing up suspect placements, and selecting your climb. Use a hammer to get the t-nuts completely flush and seated. 1 set of wired nuts or stoppers. An in-depth short tutorial on how to install T Nuts! Please like an subscribe for more fastener content. Nov 29, 2017 · Nut or Wires are the backbone of the modern trad climbing rack and knowing how to use them is vital. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Ball Nuts? For those that have heard of them but have never tried them, they are thought of as a piece of aid climbing pro or a relic from a bygone climbing era. We show how to install a 4-prong t-nut and a round-base t-nut. Oct 29, 2021 · We field tested 7 of the best climbing nut tools in 2025 from top brands like Metolius and Black Diamond. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. nuts TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different brands are made by competing Nov 9, 2022 · Place hand hold over the desired hole (t-nut) in the climbing wall, lining up the hand hold with the hole in the climbing wall. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. To anchor to a concrete floor 1) Drill a pilot hole, 2) insert the wedge anchor, 3) tighten the nut. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Info includes how to drill several sheets of plywood at a time, my favorite drill bit for t-nut installation, how to pound t-nuts in, which type of t-nuts to choose, t-nut sizing, how to drill a Climb safely with nuts Nuts are an essential piece of climbing equipment for sport climbers and mountaineers who don’t want to move from bolt to bolt. In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Cleaning routes is the only safe way to learn how to climb trad Find yourself a patient teacher Know before you go. In this article, we discuss when to use a climbing nut versus a cam, plus how to place climbing nuts for your safety and confidence on the crag. climbing protection: when to use cams vs. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. Using a socket or wrench tighten a nut and washer on the wedge anchor. Chalk line https://amzn. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. Try to avoid tightening your holds excessively or using bolts that are too short to engage all the threads in the T In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. Black Diamond Stoppers are an essential for every trad rack, designed with a transverse taper that permits sideways placements in flares and shallow seams. Find out how to position and remove nuts safely. Time-tested passive pro, Stoppers are a direct link to the original chocks that started the clean climbing revolution. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Learn how to place climbing cams. 4 locking carabiners. Make sure they are straight and flush with the surface of the plywood. Do you hammer in T-nuts? Installing t-nuts. This makes re-racking much faster, especially for a partner who doesn’t know your nut or how you like to rack them. Jan 6, 2020 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. When loaded, the pressure is shared equally on both sides (spine and gate) of the carabiner. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Here are our in-depth reviews! Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. for build plans please visitcl May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. We use #6 zinc plated 1 5/8 screws the majority of our line. Drilling Holes for Your Climbing Wall Have you decided what pattern you want? For most home woodies (walls), a 5"x5" or 6"x6" pattern works great. Click to advance! Indoor climbing holds come in a variety of different colors, shapes and sizes. A complete selection of 17 climbing nuts can be obtained for approximately $10 (including air mail postage) from Joe Brown, Menai Hall, Llanberis, North Wales, Great Britain. I'm drafting up plans for a home wall and I'm trying to figure out what kind of t-nuts and bolts people use (size-wise). 5 and 5. Indoor climbing holds come in a variety of different colors, shapes and sizes. to/3aX Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or May 8, 2023 · Uncover the secrets of indoor climbing holds! Learn how to conquer jugs, slopers, pinches, pockets, & footholds like a pro with our comprehensive guide. But for those that have used them for free climbing, especially on less traveled granite, and in the alpine, they tend to become an invaluable addition to the rack for many climbs. 4-Steps to Attach a Climbing Hold Using a T-Wrench: Use a 5/16" T-wrench, push the 3/8" bolt through the bolt hole on the climbing hold and match the bolt to the threaded t-nut inserted in the wall Get the bolt started while being careful not to cross-thread. Installing t-nuts. They placed bolts in otherwise “unprotectable” rock to create fully bolted sport climbs. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? I can see for smaller and micro offset nuts it being necessary as you can only get so small by turning a Jan 31, 2023 · Discover the different types of indoor climbing holds so you can practice various grips and determine how to use certain types of holds based on their appearance. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly outwards from the rock). Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. What T-NUTS do you need for a rock climbing wall? How to install the different types of T-NUTS and some tips to make it better. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazi A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. Nothing thinner than 3/4" is strong enough, and all U. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility Get all the information about How to Use the 9 Basic Types of Climbing Handholds. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. Install several wedge anchors as appropriate to secure your climbing wall base in place. It’s also notable that people use the term “nuts” to refer to chocks and stoppers as well. If you feel a lot of resistance, back it out and start again. Screw-on holds attach using drywall, decks screws or concrete Tapcon screws. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Whether you want to create an additional anchor point on a sport climbing route between widely spaced bolts or you want to completely secure your own route, you should always Jun 28, 2023 · Later, in the 1970s and 80s (1), climbers began using bolts in a new way– for sport climbing. I then use electrical tape to colour code the nut: red=big; yellow=medium; blue=small. This In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some useful advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Take care not to cross-thread the T-nut. 10 shoulder-length (60 cm) sewn runners. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing gear editor, shows how to place and clean nuts. Learn the different types of t-nuts that you can use for the climbing wall and how to repair them if they fail. Oct 8, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. These will give you a good range of sizes. After a while, this practice gained popularity (and legitimacy) in the United States. What are rock climbing friends? Like other climbing devices such as belays, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, a climbing friend or cam is also an essential safety piece used for secure holds when climbing. Shop our full line of T-Nuts here: https://boltsandn How to Best layout the t-nut pattern for a DIY CLIMBING WALL. T-Nuts are placed on the backside of the climbing wall and used for attaching bolt-on climbing holds with a 3/8″ bolt. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. Get 10% o May 17, 2021 · There are many styles of nuts, chocks, and stoppers that you can choose from. Using nuts is a good way to secure a route that has many cracks. How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process be Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Inspect your wires for kinks or abrasions and inspect the heads of your nuts for abrasions or cracks. 2K subscribers Subscribe Subscribed What are rock climbing friends? Like other climbing devices such as belays, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, a climbing friend or cam is also an essential safety piece used for secure holds when climbing. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. For a more in-depth discussion of what makes a good passive placement, we recommend John Long's book Climbing Anchors. Aug 20, 2025 · Introduction to Climbing Anchors Climbing anchors are critical components in ensuring the safety and stability of climbers during ascents and descents. For a beginner figuring out how to climb them might be a daunting challenge. In In this video, Dave Rudkin shows us how to correctly place nuts. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Nov 22, 2021 · What do I need for a trad rack? Basic guidelines for your first trad rack 1 set of cams, covering #. 4-6 quickdraws. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. We have elaborated on several related topics and suggested top methods and 3 products for repelling squirrels from accessing your home without hurting them. On a home wall that uses 3/4″ plywood, the bolt must stick out from the back of the hold at least 3/4″ in order to fully engage the T-nut threads. The type that you will want might depend on the type of rock that you’re trying to climb. Then place a new t-nut in the patch just like you would normally do. For any help regarding any product explore the How-to section on Atomik Climbing Holds. All tutorials and quizzes about anchors and alpine climbing in our May 13, 2025 · Discover T-nuts in plywood for furniture, climbing walls, and woodworking. Remember to check out our selection Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. May 1, 2018 · The humble nut tool: the tool that no one really wants to have to use. May 26, 2025 · Learn Mastering Gear Placements: Cams, Nuts, and Slings in Trad Climbing. Build bomber anchors, boost confidence & climb safer. This is often just a word used to refer to something that you use to secure yourself and keep yourself safe while climbing TNUT CLIMBING offers over 500 Australian climbing holds made of resistant polyurethane, all screw-in t-nuts, everything for climbing centres to home climbing wall owners, kids' climbing ramps, affordable bolts, anti-climbing mats, climbing t-shirts Climbing holds made to order in Perth, Western Australia, and most often ready to ship only within a week or two! How to choose the right Feb 13, 2022 · If you don’t want to co-exist with squirrels anymore, you should learn how to stop squirrels climbing up drain pipes. When you need it though, you’ll be thankful you brought it. Get 10% off on Replacement . May 6, 2025 · The smallest climbing nut is the Peck 1/4" diameter cracker. How do you build your own rock climbing wall? Here's the how to building your own climbing wall with instructions on materials, preparations, grid arrangements, etc. Climbing Tip: Introduction to Ball Nuts Obsession Climbing 12. Here, we’ll focus mostly on the different climbing holds and how to use The t-nuts stay in place in back of the wall. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Discover how a ball nut functions to provide secure placements and increase efficiency during rock climbing and mountaineering activities. Use 3/4" ACX plywood for the sheet-ing. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. Here's what you need to know. There are 288 in one 4x8 sheet of plywood. He goes into great depth about what makes for good protection. 1 nut tool. 20-30 feet of 7mm accessory cord. It's for this reason that they How to place stopper nuts when rock climbing and trad climbing is a skill al trad climbers need to know. A beginners guide to different climbing protection, here we cover nuts, rocks and wires. The evolution of rock climbing nuts reflects a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, where the fundamental purpose remains unchanged, but the means of achieving it continue to progress. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Thoughts?? May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. How to make a climbing wall at home. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Trying to master my gear placement though. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. These are the best climbing nut tools for every different need from best all around to lightweight, from budget options to most durable. All home Two sets of nuts with a removal tool between them In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). There are two main categories of climbing anchors: natural and artificial. Cams use a spring system that presses the jaws into the sides of the rock crack to hold their position firm. Jun 27, 2023 · In this article, we cover the main principles of safety when lead climbing—both when clipping bolts and learning to place cams, nuts, hexes and tri cams. Simply pulling yourself up might not be the wisest choice, since your leg and body positioning play an equally important role in getting you to the top and back down. This is a high-grade, exterior plywood. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Jan 24, 2024 · What size bolts do climbing holds use? These holds attach to your climbing wall with a 3/8 inch bolt which screws into a t-nut and is the most common method for mounting climbing holds. Lower grades of plywood have more voids in the inner layers, so it is quite possible to rip T-nuts right through the sheeting while climbing. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Nuts are removable securing devices that act as an anchor for alpine climbing. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. Insert the bolt through the hand hold and into the climbing wall. Feb 25, 2024 · As climbing technology evolves, climbers benefit from lighter yet stronger nuts, contributing to a safer and more efficient climbing experience. Climbing Technology 'Carved Chocks' are standard anodised curved nuts that come in a 11 sizes although that does include three sizes which most would consider as micro-nuts. Sep 8, 2022 · Knowing how to place climbing nuts for the best protection allows you to save your pricey cams for when you really need them, getting more mileage out of your climbing gear. 2K subscribers Subscribe Subscribed TNUT CLIMBING offers over 500 Australian climbing holds made of resistant polyurethane, all screw-in t-nuts, everything for climbing centres to home climbing wall owners, kids' climbing ramps, affordable bolts, anti-climbing mats, climbing t-shirts Climbing holds made to order in Perth, Western Australia, and most often ready to ship only within a week or two! How to choose the right May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the DMM Alloy Offsets is the best Climbing Nuts and Stoppers available in 2025. Lay the plywood panels face down (the climbing surface down). 20 non-locking carabiners. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. Apr 5, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. With the right knowledge of these types, climbers can make informed Oct 6, 2025 · The move from nuts / cams to just cams - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. I then put them on three carabiners painted with the same colours. Nov 22, 2021 · How do you mark climbing nuts? I paint the base of the nut “my” colour. T-nut problems Properly cared for, the T-nuts in your climbing wall should withstand many years of heavy use. How to effectively remove t-nuts that have spun out of the back of a climbing wall when a hold is attached using an angle grinder. Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. Inside, you'll find a step-by-step installation guide. This article will teach you the basics but remember there is no substitute for being taught on a learn to trad climb course. gpat4p4kttto79prlcmdnlizf9ip8czv7pbni0loyfbmp